Line Islands - Cook Islands
Line Iaslands - Cook Islands in Google Maps (web browser) and in Google Earth (separate application)
Penrhyn
A five-day passage brings us from Fanning Island to Penrhyn, the northern-most Cook Island, and to the drier South Pacific weather. Blue Bie is cleared quickly by the authorities and we are free to roam the island. It’s not very beautiful at first sight: A cyclone has destroyed many buildings and the 150 inhabitants are waiting for the supply ship to bring building materials.
Penrhyn at sunset
We are meeting the principal of the school, who invites the pastor of the Cook Island Christian Church and himself for a drink on board of Blue Bie. Actually, we wanted to sleep after the passage…
Destroyed Penrhyn school-house
This sets the scene for our stay on Penrhyn: While there are not too many attractions, we are invited everyday with someone else for dinner. The sailors are the only tourists on the island due to the lack of regular sea or air transportation.
Penrhyn highway
Everybody seems to have a computer problem and it doesn’t take long and I can return the favor. It’s a great way to learn about the life on the island.
Penrhyn beauties
We are attending Sunday mass and listen to the wonderful hymns and chorals, but excuse ourselves from the other services and meetings which occupy the locals all Sunday and have a beer onboard the fellow Swedish cruisers.
Penrhyn church
Penrhyn feels nearly deserted after the busy Fanning. No wonder: more than 2’000 people have been living on Penrhyn a generation ago and have all left the island for greener pastures in Rarotonga and New Zealand. The remaining people are living of Government salaries, remittance payments and enrich their diet with some fishing.
Birthday party
Aitutaki
Another passage brings us to Aitutaki, a South Pacific pearl with some beautiful small resorts. Another passage brings us to Aitutaki, a South Pacific pearl with some beautiful small resorts.
Aitutaki resort
A small island, a gorgeous lagoon and some smaller motus invite to dream and relax, which we do extensively with a book in the hammock on board. We also appreciate the opportunity to get some fresh, or at least frozen, food.
A lazy day in Aitutaki
We are climbing by bike and on foot the highest point of the island (124m) and enjoy the view over the lagoon and circumnavigate the island by bike and enjoy being treated in a resort.
Aitutaki lagoon
We cross the lagoon by dinghy to visit two small motus – Maina and Honeymoon Island. The latter has its name from the many weddings on Aitutaki and the honeymooners coming to the motu. It’s not as idyllic as the name: hundreds of red-tail paradise birds are breeding and making quite some noise!
Red-tailed tropical bird
Rarotonga
It’s another day’s passage to Rarotonga, the main Cook Island. The capital Aviatua with 10’500 inhabitants would be a small town at home and doesn’t offer much more with its 3 small supermarkets, a weekly vegetable market and two dozen shops. But here it is a South-Pacific capital with all the government functions.
Old and new catamaran!
We are renting a scooter over the long Queen’s Birthday weekend (the English Queen, since Cook Island is associated with New Zealand, Commonwealth and hence England).
Rarotonga landscape
We circumnavigate the island within the hour and have plenty of time to hike into the center and spend some time at the touristy Muri Beach.
Muri beach
Tourists stay in contrast to Tahiti extended periods on the scenic main island.
What better argument...
Palmerston
It takes us two days to cover 260 nautical miles to Palmerston in very light winds; presenting more than enough opportunity to catch a fish, revere the passage making and day dream.
Mahi Mahi
The 67 inhabitants of Palmerston are descendents of the Englishman William Marsters and his three Polynesian wives in the 18th century. Even today the inhabitants and the land are divided to the families of the three wives. Again, there are no tourists other than the sailors due to missing sea or air connection. Actually, it is us, who are bringing 8 boxes of food to the inhabitants.
Tere and Edwar
We receive an incomparable welcome by the Marsters family. Edward, Shirley and Simon are our hosts and pick us up every morning for a day on the island.
Simon and me
We participate in the island life, help sand their boats (island-style with a towel and sand), plant coconut palms, fish and hunt huge coconut crabs.
Scrubbing the underwater
These are easily the most beautiful motus around the turquoise lagoon I have ever seen, not the least because it is largely unscathed by population pressure.
Planting coconut palms
We hang out, chat and have lunch with our hosts every day. It’s a unique chance to eat local cuisine which comprises a lagoon fish (for example parrot or unicorn fish), rice and one of the many different side-dishes made from coconut meat. We contribute whatever they are missing – and that’s many things since the supply ship hasn’t been here for nearly half a year.
Coconut delicacies
We are enjoying the Palmerston hospitality with two other crews and help a project with the older school children to develop some business ideas, such as a bakery and handicraft atelier and shop.
Palmerston gang
The biggest problem of Palmerston quickly becomes apparent: Should every of the 12 families shop with the bakery for USD 5 daily, the turnover would amount to USD 60 – not much! And the few cruisers which hail during some three months will not make much of a difference.
Old Plmerston house
There’s another issue: The labor supply is in contrast to most labor markets in the world strictly limited to the current inhabitants. It’s not always a question of finding the right man; it is sometimes to choose the least unsuitable one! Everyone has several jobs: Fishing, coconut harvesting, government functions from admin to running the generator have all to be shared.
Palmerston Island show
It’s not an easy task for the island council to determine the right development for the island: Should they aspire for an airport and tourism with the likely consequence of ‘hired’ labor or should they continue as they do at the moment? Two thirds of the families and I believe all cruisers agree with the current course!
Coconuts on the beach
Over the week we are staying in Palmerston, we are chatting with pretty much all the inhabitants and are charmed by the people, but also a bit set back by the strong segregation between the families. Life is not easy in paradise!
(palmerstonisland@hotmail.com), bevor ihr Rarotonga verlässt um falls notwendig Nachschub für die Insel von dort mitnehmen könnt.
Palmerston admirers
It's easily the best experience I have had on my journey so far. I can only encourage you to visit Palmerston. Send a mail to Tere (palmerstonisland@hotmail.com) before leaving Rarotonga to organise the transport of supplies, if necessary.
(C) 2011 - Alle Rechte vorbehalten